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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS – READ STEPS 1-9 BEFORE STARTING

 

  1. TEAR (do not cut) the paper at each end to expose the roll
    1. IMPORTANT! Do not remove the entire paper wrap unit the shade is mounted in the brackets.
  2. C-2 Mounting brackets are universal for all mounting angles.
    1. The plastic bracket insert must be placed with the open end upward (or shade will fall out of bracket)
  3. A stainless steel mounting surface will require pre-drilling
  4. Center the shade in the window, then mark and install the first bracket
  5. Insert the shade into the installed bracket, mark and install the other bracket.
    1. Be careful not to let the shade fall. The tube will bend and the material can be damaged. THIS WILL NOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.
  6. Always use a carpenter’s level to make sure the shade is level.
    1. Do not assume window framing is level. 
    2. Unlevel shades can telescope and could damage the material.  THIS IS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY
  7. Do not bend the brackets.
  8.  Be sure the shade is firmly in the brackets and will not fall out. One installed, all shades should be able to move side-to-side 1/16” – 1/8”.
  9.  Remove (do not cut) the paper to check for proper operation and tracking.

 

IMPORTANT – After paper is removed, do not handle Mylar film shades without gloves or a soft cloth covering your hands.  Brown jersey gloves work well when hanging Mylar shades.  To check for proper tracking or possible telescoping, start by lowering the shade approximately 1/3 of the way down and then back up.  Repeat by pulling 2/3’s of the way down and then back up.  Carefully watch that the material does not roll into the bracket.

CAUTION:  Shades should be level.  Level installation is important, if the material is damaged by the brackets – it is NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY (see “tracking adjustments” below)

 

C-2 – Universal bracket mounting brackets – The metal parts are the same for both ends. There are 2 pieces of white plastic inserts that are different.  Match the wide opening of the white plastic insert to the round pin end of the shade and the narrow opening to the chain mechanism side.  Slide and lock the plastic inserts into the brackets with the open end up. With the fabric in the rolled up position, the chain bead connector should be at the top and to the rear.  The wide side of the chain sprocket cap will be at the top and the narrow end towards the bottom.  The chain should go over the top of the chain mechanism sprocket.

 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND MAKING ADJUSTMENTS

 

 

SHADE IS TOO NARROW (INJAMB MOUNT)

1.        The round steel pin in the end plug is designed to be pulled out up to1/8” using pliers.

2.        FABER end caps are also designed for adjustment on the job.  A notch is provided on both ends to insert a flat screwdriver and pry out 1/8”.  If ends are pried out, secure in place by indenting the metal tube into the plastic plug by using a nail or center punch.

3.        For in jamb installation, the brackets can be moved closer together with the use of a wood shim, penny or washer behind the brackets.

4.        Change the universal brackets and mounting locations from in jamb, to outside, wall or ceiling mount.

 

SHADE IS TOO WIDE (INJAMB MOUNT)

1.        The steel tube should be exposed about 1/8” – Fabric should be narrower than the tube.  Tube my be filed or trimmed down to the proper

        width.  OPERATING A SHADE THAT IS TOO TIGHT CAN RESULT IN BENDING THE TUBE DURING
        OPERATION.

2.        Reposition the brackets to a ceiling or outside mount.  DO NOT FILE THE PINS.

3.        To return a shade to the manufacturer for cut down, a RETURN AUTHORIZATION NUMBER must be assigned before the shade will

        be accepted back.  If the cut down is not the fault of the manufacturer, a service charge will be added (see         
        RETURN POLICY).

4.        Some cut downs can be done by the dealer without returning the shade.  Contact the manufacturer for directions.

 

SHADE DOES NOT TRACK STRAIGHT – “TELESCOPE”

1.        Always use a carpenter’s bubble level to make sure the shade is level.  It does not necessarily have to be eye level or parallel with the window

        frame.

2.        If the tube is level, pull down shade or unroll material until the metal tube is exposed.  Stack or shim several pieces of tape (not a thin Scotch tape)

        3” – 4” along the tube on the end opposite the direction that the material is tracking towards.  Repeat or thicken shims
        if necessary.

3.        When using Sheer Weave material, there may be existing shims.  You may want to remove them and start over.

 

 

BOTTOM BAR NOT LEVEL OR PARALLEL OR FABRIC NOT PARALLEL TO THE WINDOW FRAME SIDES

PAINTED STEEL BOTTOM BAR – Remove end caps, slide off bar, reposition the wood slat, restaple, slide bottom bar on and attach end caps.

HEM POCKET WITH ALLUMINIM INTERNAL BAR – Is the pocket out of square when the shade is up, down or both?

1.  Check for level of roller tube.   2.  Check for level of window sill or frame.   3.  To correct bottom hem on Sheer Weave – unroll the shade and grasp roller tube, pull down on hem bar on the high side end to stretch fabric downward.  Do not pull shade out of brackets.

You can also slightly lower one bracket or raise the other to compensate.  CAUTION:  Too much bracket adjustment may cause shade to track off and be damaged by brackets (see tracking).  For slight adjustment tape the tube (see tracking) on the opposite side of the lower bar end.  Again take caution and watch for tracking.  For a severe out of level bar, shades with them pockets must be returned to manufacturer.  Mark side and distance of adjustment before packing and returning.

 

SHADES TO NOT OPERATE OR ARE HARD TO OPERATE

1.        Are the brackets tight against the roller?  Is the shade tight against the window return?  Are your brackets bent in or out?  You should have 1/16” –              1/18” side-to-side shade movement.

2.        Spring rollers – check for tension or proper spring tension.

3.        Chain mechanism – Is the chain connector being pulled into the sprocket?  If so, remove the sprocket cap that holds the chain on and readjust the chain.  Or remove shade from brackets and hand roll up or down to align connector.  When the shade is up, the connector should be at the end and to the rear, (side closest to window).

4.        Is the chain long enough to allow the connector to travel the full length?  Does the connector start at the top-rear and finishing at the top-front.  Chain should be at least ½ the shade height.

5.        The chain mechanism may not be moving freely.  Remove the shade from the brackets, pull out chain mechanism from tube, hold outer rim with you hand and pull the chain.  Does it rotate?  To reorder, measure across tube – 1 3/8” (size of a half dollar).

6.        Are the white plastic bracket inserts matched with the shade ends properly (C-2 mechanism)?  Wide opening for the end plug (idler) and narrow opening for flat chain mechanism end.  The wide side of the chain sprocket cap will be at the top (C-2 mechanism).

7.        Chain should go over the top of the chain mechanism sprocket.